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I can imagine both Marlene dietrich and Conrad veidt wearing this. A very unusual masterpiece.
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It is Japanese, in the same way as Flowerbykenzo oriental, but FdB is less Japanese and thomas more european. Along with the more recient la fille de berlin (another great scent of the lutens' range it makes me think about the old, decadent Europe, to be more precise, the europe of the war Interlude. The 20's Paris, the weimar Republic Berlin. Although originally FdB was intended as a female perfume, it has, in my opinion, an androgynous quality, but not in an innocent, careless way, calvin Klein's One's style. No, though classically elegant, and yet daring and modern, those lutens' perfumes have a hint of refined, dark, even peter eerie perversion, in which lies the core itself of the perfume, the contrast between the sensual sweetness of the spices (cinnamon, clove, vanilla, ry much like. I guess the name aludes to that. Lola-lola in The Blue angel, cesare in The cabinet of Doctor Caligari.
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About the perfume itself, is a masterpiece, but clearly something not mainstream. Not even during the Shiseido period. It is sweet, indeed, but very far away from these hideous candy-flash-gourmand perfumes so fashionable in our days (Thierry mugler's Angel. You have been so harmful.). If I had to compare FdB to a kind of food, it would be some sort of sweet-spicy eastern-Arabian pastry, whose sweetness is tempered by pack a sip of sour tea or some sort of strong liquor. It is not, certainly, a youthful perfume, but it has, besides its undeniable old-school style, some original and innovative quality. It is said that the original FdB was inspired by the ladies in the ancient Japanese court, who had the habit of scenting the paper of their letters with incense. It has, too, a certain Japanese quality, but towards an European, parisian even, point of view.
And yet, all the perfumes are in my opinion just variations on the feminité whitening du bois scent. They are beautiful, and first rate material, but all of them are a bit the same. And also too overpriced. The Shiseido-lutens' had beautiful flacons, and stunning advertising, and only rarely you can find this in the current Lutens range. But the prices are about three or four times superior. The ethernal problem with niche perfumery. Or they will change the things, or they will not be niche perfumes in a close future.
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Jr duty Free 2014, huid stay in touch, back to top. Payment is in Progress and may take several minutes to complete. Feminté du bois was my first exposition to niche perfumery. I have both versions, the Shiseido one (that I bought shortly before it was discontinued, in eau de parfum concentration and the serge lutens one. You can certainly tell is the same perfume, but the Shiseido's one was woodier, dryer, with prominent notes of beeswax and almonds which are not in the lutens' version, which is sweeter and frutier. I have a long and controversial relationship with Lutens' perfumes. I feel his best works were done during his Shiseido period, and that the whole serge lutens range is clearly overestimated. Don't misanderstand me, i think almost all Lutens' perfumes are beautiful, but most of the credit belongs to Christopher Sheldrake, who is a bit in the shadows.